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What is cut work?

cut work

A portion of a cloth design is cut away in cut work embroidery, leaving holes. Eyelets, also known as broderie anglaise, are a style of cutwork embroidery that is perhaps the most well-known.

Cutwork is a style of embroidery that is trimming small pieces of cloth and then on the bigger fabric is known as cut work embroidery. This kind of work is done on fabric to create a minute and intricate pattern on the saree which is later known as cut work saree or jaali work saree.

Indian textile is one of the oldest manufacturing industries in the whole world, which manufactures a vast range of products with widely vivid designs and patterns. This wide diversity is available only because of the different types of weaving techniques available.

Many weaving techniques of Indian manufacturing units are well known around the world, but there are many such which are like the hidden gems of our country. Cutwork technique is one of them, people always have a question: what is cut work?


This technique is one of the most used techniques when sarees are woven together. The best part of this type of work is it is done in less time than other kinds of work. After the weaving process is completed one will find a large number of silk threads at the back which later is cut down after the process is finished.

As per the facts and information, it is proven that the cutwork technique uses all types of silk yarn and every kind of pattern. You’ll find many different kinds and patterns of cutwork on Kurtis, lehengas, and Embroidery sarees wholesale. You’ll find cutwork done in three different techniques 

  1. Cut a small fabric and get it embroidered on another. 
  2. Another way is to cut the fabric and embroidered it at the same time
  3. Embroider the fabric first and then cut it. 

What makes cutwork sarees different from other sarees is that they are made from many different pieces of fabric which are brought together to be stitched.


These sarees are always worn on occasions that are special and important. The grace and elegance these sarees bring are out of the world when worn on occasions like anniversaries, birthdays, or even any religious event, all these do is bring the hidden beauty to you.

Cutwork is an intricate design, it is done in a very precise manner making them the most prized possession you have in your wardrobe. You’ll find a number of reasons why this saree attracts women the most, the important one is it not only make you look beautiful but makes you let people know your personality through it. This saree when you’ll wear will leave a very impactful impression for a longer period of time. 


You’ll find various forms of cutwork embroidery available in our industry, the most famous and well know are; Richelieu embroidery, renaissance, and broderie Anglaise. 

Richelieu embroidery has loops on the bars of the buttonhole which cross the areas that are open of the embroidery cutwork.  Different needlework is what Broderie Anglaise is, this technique stitches in oval or circular eyelet form. You’ll find this embroidery in floral forms and many times on baby garments. 

The two kinds of the main stitching used are running and buttonhole. Cutwork is done on the surface of the saree, which is of fabric linen, cotton, or lawn. The threads used are of the same color or traditional white. 


The first and foremost thing to do is transfer the pattern to the fabric. If you have brought a cutwork design that is commercial that you’ll already find it on the fabric but if not you might have an iron-on transfer to do so. 

If you don’t have an iron-on transfer you can easily do this work on the fabric on your own by using disappearing ink pens which are preferably used to design on fabric.

You’ll find two different options of such pens available one in which the ink is disappeared by wash or which disappears after a while when exposed to the air.  

Richelieu is outlined about 1/8th inch apart with parallel lines which are in pairs. You’ll find the stitches traced in running form creating a slight padded texture to buttonhole stitches you can start the running stitches close together without making it tighter by placing the fabric in a hoop.


Make sure to use disappearing ink to draw the designs which are going to be cut out later on by marking an X at the center of each design you want to eliminate. 

You’ll find many people using hoops to do this kind of work you can even keep the fabric in your hand to do it, make sure not to hold it tight, or else it will be puckered. Take as much time as you need to make sure both sides of the stitches are done even. Don’t panic as this is handwork it is bound to be slightly messy as it’s not done by a machine. 


Get yourself sharp embroidery scissors when all your stitching is complete and try to cut every X mark fabric you are planning to cut.

The best way to work and cut the fabric is to start cutting it from the reverse side. Fold the fabric and start cutting the center of the unwanted fabric area, and proceed to cut by slipping the scissors into the fabric. Even if you find loose fibers after cutting they’ll be gone after the first wash. 

Also Read: What Are Fashion Rings and How To Wear Them?


1.Button Hole Stitched Cut work Piece

This approach is the most popular one. The thread bars and pattern lines can be closely worked with buttonhole stitches.

2. Double Button Hole Stitches Are Used In The Cutwork.

Buttonhole stitches are worked on both sides of the design lines in a double buttonhole stitch.

3. Cut Work That Is Sewn With Straight Machine Or Hand Back Stitches.

Simple cutwork like this is done on material that won’t fray or that won’t be washed. Running stitches are used over the design’s outline, and the outside spaces are snipped out. The majority of this work is done on home furnishings.

4. Cutwork Done With Sewing Machine ZigZag Stitching.

When using this stitch, you must maintain the fabric inside an embroidery hoop. Apply a fusible interfacing on the back of the cloth to make it firm enough before hooping.

The zigzag/satin stitches can be done in two pieces as a trick. Perform the fundamental satin stitch first, remove the interior fabric , and then repeat the basic satin stitch. This will guarantee that all of the cut edges and stray threads are securely tucked in.

5. Hand-Overcast Stitches Are Used In Cut Work.

Utilizing six strands of embroidery thread and a hand sewing needle, simple Overcast stitches are made over the design lines. When the spaces have already been cut out and the thread loops, this is done.

6. Cutwork That Uses Picot And Button Hole Stitches.

In this kind of work, the design lines are covered by buttonhole stitches, which are subsequently covered by picot stitches. This gives the cutwork a lovely lace-like appearance. For more information, see the picot stitch lesson.

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